The first year I grew flowers, my cutting garden was a delightful jungle of flowers and waist high weeds. While I loved the process of selecting varieties, planting, tending and picking I hadn’t anticipated just how much energy would be used battling weeds to ensure a healthy and abundant harvest.
The following spring, determined to have a more successful experience, I borrowed a thousand dollars from my Mom and ordered enough landscape fabric to cover my barely half acre plot.
While it was a huge investment, it was the only way I could see being able to manage the weeds, wrangle our two small children and grow my budding little business. That spring, Chris burned close to 15,000 holes in landscape fabric and I finally had a thriving and relatively weed free garden.
A lot has changed since then, both the kids and the garden have grown rapidly, but that initial batch of landscape fabric is still in use and has been added to each season.
While weed suppression is our main reason for using landscape fabric, there are a few additional benefits worth noting. Unlike plastic, landscape fabric is reusable. The majority of our stock is in its tenth season and shows little to no wear.
I’ve also inherited a batch of pre-burned fabric from a retired flower farmer that dates back to the early 90’s and is still in pretty good shape, considering the age. I am hopeful that ours will last for 20+ years too.
Things like zinnias, celosia, cosmos and Bbasil which like warmer soil and added heat thrive when planted into the fabric. And moisture retention seems to be greatly increased with the use of fabric. Another great bonus is that fabric makes for a tidy, clean looking garden. Proper plant spacing is a snap when the holes are already preset.
Lastly, weed pressure is greatly decreased. We generally only have to do two early rounds of weeding on the fabric beds before they can coast for the rest of the season untended. Compared to the typical four or five rounds of weeding needed on our open field crops, the cost of the fabric quickly pays for itself in saved labor.
Sunbelt is the brand of landscape fabric we always buy, but if you can’t find it locally, Johnny’s Selected Seeds carries some too. It is shiny on both sides (avoid the type with a fuzzy bottom), is super durable and comes in a number of different lengths and widths.
We prefer the 6 foot wide x 300 foot long rolls which allows four feet for the growing bed and if overlapped with another swath of fabric, it provides a weed-free path in between the beds, which is just wide enough to get down for planting, weeding and harvesting.
It’s important that the holes in the landscape fabric are burned, not cut. We highly recommend using a handheld Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch attachment which screws onto a 14 ounce disposable propane canister, available at your local hardware store. One canister will last a long time and the automatic trigger switch, while more expensive than the flint lit version, will pay for itself in no time.
For perfect spacing and increased efficiency, you will need to use some type of template. In the early years I made them out of cardboard and lined the holes with tin foil. It worked pretty well for a short while, but they didn’t hold up over the long haul.
I’ve had friends make them out of plywood, but I’d recommend you stay away from this option since plywood is really heavy to pull along if you have a lot of fabric to burn.
The best option is to use a template made out of metal. You can make your own with supplies from the hardware store including a 2″ hole drill and sheet metal. It’s a bit of a project but metal is the lightest and longest last option.
If making your own template feels too daunting, we now have our signature fabric burning templates available in the Floret shop. These ultra durable, easy to use templates were custom made to the exact specifications that we use here on the farm. They can be shipped anywhere in the continental United States.
These fabric burning templates are a total game changer when it comes to using landscape fabric because they allow you to perfectly space each hole quickly and efficiently, saving you so many hours of work.
Here on the farm we use 6 main spacing regimes. You can learn more about our approach to intensive growing, including more about spacing in this post: How-To Grow More Flowers Than You Ever Thought Possible
6×6” spacing = 7 rows per bed. This ultra tight spacing is great for single-stemmed crops like lisianthus, flowering cabbage and Bombay celosia.
9×9” spacing = 5 rows per bed. This is by far our most popular spacing, making up about 80% of our field and is perfect for dianthus, zinnias, basil, frosted explosion grass, snapdragons, ageratum, bupleurum and honeywort.
12×12” spacing = 4 rows per bed. This spacing is perfect for bulky varieties like bells of Ireland, celosia, amaranth, scented geranium, perilla and lavatera.
18x 18” spacing = 3 rows per bed. This spacing works for really large plants like branching sunflowers, eucalyptus and dahlias.
Vine spacing, 8” between plants and 12” between rows = 2 rows per bed, one on each side of the trellis. This spacing is perfect for sweet peas, nasturtiums, love in puff and hyacinth bean.
Dahlia spacing, 12″ between plants and 18″ between rows = 2 rows per bed. We grow our dahlias intensively, with 2 rows per bed.
In past years we’ve burned the fabric outdoors because the fumes are pretty strong, but when wind free days are scarce in the spring, we sometimes have to move the project inside. Our garage has a large concrete floor and plenty of big doors that can be rolled open for good ventilation.
With music going and someone to help move the template, we are able to burn a 300 foot roll of fabric in about an hour and a half.
Before laying the fabric, beds are amended with compost and fertilizer, then lightly tilled and given four lines of drip irrigation each. You can get the full scoop about how we prepare planting beds in my post about soil preparation.
After the soil has been amended and drip irrigation is in place, the fabric is then rolled out over the beds and irrigation lines, and anchored in place with earth staples. During the earliest months of spring, we get a lot of intense wind storms (gusts of up to 40-60 mph) that roll through our valley.
To keep newly laid fabric in place during really breezy weather, we place cinder blocks along the pathways. Once the weather has calmed we take them up and store them away. Seedlings are then tucked into the holes with our favorite planting tool, a butter knife. Nothing does the job better! Newly planted babies are given a light overhead watering, a long drip irrigation soaking and then are left to do their thing.
We come through a few times with compost tea and then as the plants grow add a layer or two of Hortonova flower netting for support.After the crop has been harvested, we remove the netting, mow the remaining foliage down with either our brush hog set a foot above the ground, or with a weedwhacker.
We then chain the ends of the fabric to our tractor bucket and pull it up. But before we had a tractor, it was all done by hand. After the fabric is removed, we shake off the excess dirt, fold it up and store it away for the next season.
While using landscape fabric is certainly more labor intensive on the front and back end of the season vs. straight field planting, we’ve found that the added weed suppression and perfect preset plant spacing far outweigh the drawbacks.