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February 13th 2018

It is seed starting time!

Written by
Floret

Every year around mid February, I am ready for winter to be over and I yearn to get my hands dirty and to dig in the soil again.  While most of the field work is still several weeks away, there is plenty to do in preparation for the season ahead. First and foremost on the late winter to-do list: sow seeds.

Starting your own seeds is a great way to get a jump on the season. It also gives you access to hundreds of specialty flowers that you won’t find at your local nursery or big box store. Plus, it is the most affordable way to fill a cutting garden fast.

I start roughly 90 percent of my seeds inside the greenhouse. If you don’t have a greenhouse, don’t worry. A simple wire racking system rigged with lights will work just fine. The first few years I grew flowers, I didn’t have a greenhouse and I started all of my seeds in the basement, on shelves, under lights. It was easy, inexpensive and a great way to grow lots of plants in a small space.

Starting seeds indoors allows me to transplant the flowers as larger plants once the weather has warmed. It also helps cut down on weeds, since I’m planting established plants that have a better chance of contending with the weeds and crowding or shading them out.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-7I’ve learned a lot about seed starting over the years and I’ve found some pretty lame ways to waste expensive seed and lots of creative ways to kill baby plants. There’s nothing I hate more than seeing trays of beautiful little baby flowers go downhill before my eyes because I overwatered, underwatered, or got too excited about transplanting and didn’t properly harden them off. Learning the hard way isn’t the most fun way to start seeds, so hopefully you can avoid making these same mistakes.

I’ve put together a list of some Do’s and Don’t when it comes to seed starting. This list of quick tips is meant to complement other resources we’ve created (be sure to read to the bottom for links)  plus help you learn from some of my greatest seed starting blunders.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-4DO tamp down the soil into your containers or cell packs. Then pack it down a teeny bit more. By pressing down on the soil, you not only eliminate air pockets that little rootlets don’t like, but you also make it so much easier to remove your baby plants once they are ready to transplant. I remember mangling a whole mess of baby snapdragons because I had been sloppy about filling the flats with the soil. When it came time to transplant, instead of popping the plants out with a nice solid chunk of soil attached, the soil separated from the roots and I ended up with a crumbly mess and traumatized plants.  

DO use fine vermiculite to cover seeds. Rather than use regular potting mix to cover seeds that need darkness to germinate, I prefer to use fine vermiculite. Potting soil often forms a crust on the top of the tray, which can wick water away, rather than soak down in.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-4DON’T forget to moisten the seed starting mix prior to adding your seeds. If you add your seeds to dry potting mix and then try to overhead water, there’s a pretty good chance you’ll send your seeds floating to the corners of the container. If they are really tiny like Iceland poppies or snapdragons, it is easy to wash them away.

DON’T start your seeds too early. In the rush to get growing, it is easy to fall into the trap of starting all your seeds all at once. If you read the seed packets or catalog descriptions, you’ll note that it is recommended to start some slow-growing flowers earlier (10-12 weeks before your last frost) than others (4-6 weeks). If your frost-free date isn’t until mid-May, for example, you’ll want to start your foxglove now, but hold off on fast-growing, heat loving zinnias until later. One year I totally jumped the gun and planted zinnias way too soon and I had plants busting out of their pots, becoming root bound because they had no where to go. They were ready to be transplanted outside, but the spring frosts hadn’t yet passed, so I had to throw them all away.

Floret Seed Starting Heat Mats-2DO use bottom heat to get your seeds started. It is amazing how much faster and how much better seeds germinate with a little heat at their feet. Propagation mats work great for this. If you are a home gardener or small scale flower farmer you can get by with just one or two mats. Leave your seed starting trays on the heat mat only until they germinate. Once sprouted, move the tray off the heat and make room for the next seed starting tray(s).

DON’T seed more than one type of flower in the tray, especially if you plan to use a humidity dome. Germination rates vary by variety so it is best to have all the cells filled with the same flowers, that way you won’t be forced to remove the dome too soon for a row of early germinators or too late for those slow to germinate. Plus, having variable plant heights in the same tray makes adjusting the height of the lights over the trays difficult (shorter plants within the tray can get leggy when light is adjusted for the taller plants).

DON’T forget to label your seed tray. Avoid the curse of the “mystery plants” by making sure to always write the name of the flower you are sowing and the date it was sown on the back of a waterproof plant tag (avoid wooden popsicle sticks) with a pencil, grease pencil or super-duper strength Sharpie marker. I always stick the label in the same corner of every seed tray, so they line up uniformly.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-15DO remove the plastic humidity dome after your seeds germinate. Domes are really only used on the trays until the seeds germinate, which for some varieties may be as few as a few days. Once your plants have popped up, they need lots of air and light. Left on too long, domes can kill seedlings. Note: some gardeners recommend “weaning” their trays from a humidity dome by propping the dome open for a day or two before fully removing it. Similar to the process of hardening off more mature plants, this gradual acclimation to the heat and humidity outside the dome can reduce plant shock.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-12DO water your plants from the bottom when possible. Standard seed starting sets contain three pieces: a humidity dome, a cell pack layer with drainage holes, and a tray that serves as a liner for the cell packs. By nesting your cell packs (or whatever container you choose to use) in the waterproof tray, you can then add water to the tray which allows the soil to essentially siphon or wick up the water. This keeps water off of your leaves, helps prevent problems with fungus and disease, plus it focuses water where it is needed most, at the root level.

DON’T underestimate the amount of light tiny plants need to grow. If you use grow lights, be sure to adjust them so that they are no more than three inches above the tops of your plants. When I was a newbie, this was not intuitive to me. At all! As a result, I grew lots of gangly, leggy plants because they weren’t getting enough light.The bulbs were simply too far away from the foliage canopy. Once I realized my mistake, I adjusted the lights to about an inch or so above the top of the leaves (it seems really close, but trust me this is better for the plant). Once I had the lights adjusted, I found that the plants grew so much better, with nice strong stems.

DON’T underestimate the amount of attention your young plants need. Like a newborn baby, your baby plants are going to need more care, feeding and attention than you anticipate (but without the dirty diapers or late night feedings). Going away–even for a short weekend trip– will likely mean finding a reliable “plant sitter” who knows how to properly water your plants, remove humidity domes if necessary and otherwise care for your babies while you are gone.

DO invest in automatic timers. If you are using grow lights to start your seeds indoors, you’ll want to invest in an inexpensive timer that will automatically turn on the light for a preset amount of time each day. Otherwise it is too easy to forget to turn on your lights and turn off your lights at the same time each day. Ideally, you’ll have your lights on  for 14 to 16 hours each day.

 

8145203143_daf7dcb159_kDO “harden off” your plants before you transplant them. I am embarrassed to admit just how many plants I fried because I didn’t do this key step. In my excitement to transplant my baby plants into the field, I didn’t give them any chance to acclimate to their new outside environment. “Hardening off” is simply a process of allowing your plants time to gradually adjust to their new environment.

Think about it: your little plants have been in a warm and cozy, temperature-controlled environment for weeks, or months. If you suddenly take them from that space and expose them to bright sun, wind and temperature swings in the open garden, it is stressful to the plant. This step often requires lots of moving plants around, but trust me, transplant shock is real and deadly and taking the time and effort to allow your starts to adjust will make for happier, stronger plants and more flowers.

DO properly store any leftover seed. For short term storage (less than two years), be sure to store your seed in a cool, dark and dry place where no insects or rodents can get to them. (I learned the hard way that all kinds of critters love seeds). Use an airtight container if you plan any longer-term seed storage.

Floret_Seed Starting 101-2DON’T beat yourself up if you make mistakes. This is probably THE most important tip. Seriously, unless you are super lucky or already have a magical green thumb, you’re probably going to kill some plants. $#!+ happens. It is totally ok! If you follow these tips, you are sure to make FAR fewer fatal mistakes than I did during the early days. Just know that mistakes are inevitable. That is part of the joy in gardening is learning what systems work well for your situation, growing system and your climate.

Have you made any of these same mistakes? Or do you have any seed starting lessons you learned the hard way? I’d love to hear about them in the comments below.

Starting your own seeds can be intimidating for new gardeners, but once you get the hang of it there’s nothing to fear and it can be great fun.

In addition to some of the tips I’m sharing today, I want to make sure you know about the following Floret resources:

– My recent book, Floret Farm’s Cut Flower Garden: Grow, Harvest & Arrange Stunning Seasonal Blooms has detailed seed starting tips and tricks.

-In the Floret Resources section, I have created a little Starting Seeds 101 tutorial and photo essay (be sure to click the arrows to advance the images) with some of the basics.

-Here on the blog, you’ll find a past post covering Seed Starting Basics.

-In the Floret Shop, I’ve included sowing and growing instructions for dozens of my favorite flowers.

One of my goals here on the site is to provide you with the best information, to help you grow great flowers and hopefully dispel the notion that success is only possible for professionals. You can do it!

48 Comments

  1. Katrina on

    Great article! I laughed as I made my way down the list. I have done so many of these mistakes over the years. I have friends ask how I have such a green thumb, but I just tell them they only see the ones growing. I have killed a vast quantity in my time! It’s part of the journey and process of gardening!

    Reply
  2. Andrea Powell on

    My flower seedlings need to be transplanted into larger containers. Do you go into larger 6 packs or into 4 inch containers? Do you remove from heat mats at that point? I have an assortment of your seeds growing including snapdragons, celosia, amaranth, phlox, bells of ireland , calendula, rudbeckia and strawflowers. They all look happy and healthy in my living room in a south facing window.

    Reply
    • Team Floret on

      Hi Andrea–
      Once the seeds have germinated, we remove trays from the heat mats. We sow most of our seeds in 72-cell flats and then transplant them directly out of those trays into the field once the plants are around 4-6 inches tall or so. If you started seeds in channel trays or small plug trays and need to bump them up, it is usually easier to go with smaller cell packs versus larger containers, as containers require more soil and more room. If your plants are big enough to transplant and your last spring frost has passed, you can harden off and transplant out. Snapdragons and bells of Ireland are hardy annuals and can take some cold temperatures and can be planted out before the last spring frost– just be sure to harden them off before transplanting them. Happy gardening!

  3. Kelli Love on

    Great tips! Thank you! My hubby and I already made the mistake of hanging our growing light too high. First timers…Whoops! I have some sunflowers that are already about an inch tall. Is it too late to change the light distance? Just ordered your book, can’t wait to crack it open and get my hands dirty!

    Reply
  4. Mary Madison on

    I am so excited I started my seed today. I placed the trays in a warm corner of my laundry room which has a fluorescent light.
    Can I just leave the overhead light on for them to germinate ? Or do I need to invest in special lights?? I just started with 2 large dome trays.
    Also how much water do you allow in bottom tray ? This is my first time to ever start seeds ,crossing my fingers !!!
    Can’t wait to get my Dahlias bulbs I feel fortunate to get my order in before they sold out !!!
    Love Love Floret Flowers !
    Blessing for your family and your new farm !
    Mary Madison

    Reply
    • Mary Gesualdo on

      I have some Dahlia tubers that came from Floret without eyes. Are they still good to plant? Also in your book,you recommend to lay the tuber on its side with the eye facing up, I have read that you are suppose to plant the tuber vertically? Also you say not to water until you see some foliage surface? Is this the same if potted in pots? Mary

  5. Linda Klein on

    I have started flower, vegetable, and herbs from seeds for over 20 years using 2 tube fluorescent light fixtures (with 1 warm and 1 cool tube each). I still start them that way in a warm cellar room. But 3 years ago we invested in 8 new fixtures for T5 fluorescent tubes and when I pot up the seedlings they get moved to a cooler part of the basement under the T5 lights. These are much stronger and my plants are noticeably taller, straighter, and stronger. HOWEVER, I place these lights 12-18 inches above the plants, raising the lights on their ceiling suspended chains as the plants grow. If you put the lights close as with the older growlights, you will fry your plants. And yes, we did learn the hard way.

    Reply
  6. Des on

    Thank you so much for this post! I love your blog and your book! Im thinking of slowly growing flowers and maybe someday having a little flower business too. I was wondering if with your seedling heat mats do you also have the temperature gage? or do you check to see how hot they are getting with a thermometer? Thank you..

    Reply
  7. Jana in North Carolina on

    Thanks for all the information. I’m retired, living in a small town northeast of Raleigh. Several years ago I started with lots of bulbs and have since added other types of flowers that I’ve planned from seeds. This past year, I had so many beautiful flowers, I starting cutting them and selling them at our little local Farmer’s Market. I’ve taken many pictures of my flowers and framed them and started selling them also. This year I’m expanding my seed planting and have looked for some new varieties that I haven’t planted before. I’ve ordered the netting to keep my tall flowers straighter, so that’s a new addition I learned from your book. I love your books about planting cut flowers. I found it at our local library, and only wish I had a copy for myself. I read the whole book. Again, I’ll keep looking for new tips, and so much of what you’ve posted is very helpful. Thanks…and happy growing!

    Reply
  8. Alastair Mather on

    I’m a beginner to vegetable gardening in a raised bed but I can appreciate what I read. But tell me, what is “a growing light”? Is it of a certain wavelength ?

    Reply
  9. April Betts Gibson on

    Erin-thank you so much for sharing your failures. It’s comforting to hear that even an accomplished gardener has experienced failure. I started sweet peas from seed last year and went on a brief vacation. My husband was watering in my absence and when I returned he stopped and I forgot to start. By the time I realized it I was confronted with lots of brown, shriveled up seedlings. As in all things, it’s not how many times you fall…..can’t wait for this season.

    Reply
  10. Hannah on

    …to follow up on John Lalley’s comment—how *do* you get rid of fungus and gnats when growing seedlings indoors? After direct-seeding gorgeous Floret zinnias last year in the garden, I am now attempting to grow Sweet Pea seedlings indoors and am just waiting for the inevitable gnats to appear. Erin, have you already posted something on this—or could you please? Many thanks!

    Reply
  11. Jen C on

    I am in the same growing zone and I am new to flowers. Do you have a list of what flowers you start at what time in the greenhouse ? Thank you!

    Reply
  12. Carolyn Hunter on

    It’s hard to believe I just heard about Floret on New Year’s Eve. It was just a few hours from midnight, while driving (my husband was driving, I was on Pinterest) through the middle of Kansas and it was 3 degrees outside as our family was traveling across the country. I was immediately entranced with the beautiful blooms on a Pinterest post, visited the website, and knew that I had finally found my passion. Now, just 6 weeks later I have hundreds of Floret seeds tucked snuggly away in my basement under lights and over warm mats. I knew NOTHING about flower farming just 3 months ago. Now, Ive read the book and studied and shopped and worked hard to learn everything I can about growing flowers. My life has changed. I know this is for me. My husband is really supportive and helpful. As a tiny kid, I gardened with my grandparents in the Nevada desert. These are the BEST memories! And now, thanks to you, it’s all coming back.
    I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge. I would have never had the courage to start without your inspiring words and pictures, and I certainly would have given up without your book, blog, and website!
    BIG THANK YOU!
    Carolyn in Tennessee

    Reply
  13. Andrea on

    Thanks for all the great tips in this blog! Wondering what you transplant your seedlings into when you put them into larger pots before hardening off…my soil is way to cold to use…do you transplant into more seedling mix or ? Thanks!

    Reply
  14. Christi on

    For the 1st time I am actually really paying attention and keeping a journal about attempting to grow flowers from seeds! I received 2 of your seed collections for Christmas so I’m extra excited to see how well I do. I feel bad about having killed some of your seeds Erin, but am glad to hear you know failures happen.
    I’m on the coast in central Florida, so I don’t need to worry about frost, BUT perhaps this above average heat took out a few this weekend! :(

    Reply
  15. John Lalley on

    Thank you for such a detailed review of your seed starting techniques. I too have made every mistake in the book. I am lucky to have a son in the LED lighting business and he has been providing me with 4′ LED tube lights for some years now. They are now fairly easy to buy and I highly recommend them….lower energy cost and no risk of overheating being close to the plants. With some cheap PVC piping and some small pullies you can buy on Amazon, you can make a home made growing station. Now, if I could find a way to rid myself of fruit flies and fungus gnats I might have most of it figured out.

    Reply
  16. Jacquie on

    Thank you very much for all the early planting tips!
    Question – All the seeds I planted in cell trays a few weeks ago, including many flowers, have sprouted and look hardy and healthy. Most of them are not big enough yet to transplant into larger pots but they are in a quality potting mix. Do I need to feed them anything at this point or will they get enough nourishment from the mix?
    Any feedback would be much appreciated.

    Reply
  17. Heidi on

    Thank you! Mine seem to mold due to lack of air circulation (I think). Have you ever had this issue?

    Reply
    • Elizabeth Hitchens NPD CHT on

      Planted too thick and overwatering causes this. Make sure to use a sterile sowing mix specifically for seeds and cuttings, this is a mix that holds moisture but drains excess as well and is less likely to have fungal spores in it. I also mist/ water with chamomile tea which helps prevent fungus. If you get die off try removing the dead seedlings and mist the rest with a 10% solution made with hydrogen peroxide and weak chamomile tea, you might save the rest. A trick I use is to always have a fan circulating air over the seedlings like a spring breeze.

  18. Heather on

    Ahh! I just did my seed planting this weekend and I WISH I had read this before I did it!! Oh, well, we’ll see how it goes this year, and next year I promise to tamp down and plant different varieties in separate domes. I am experimenting – some with seed starting mix in the big trays, some more DIY in egg cartons, and some in those coir expanding pellets. No grow light set-up so I’m just hoping they sprout in my bay window. So exited to see what grows!

    Reply
  19. Cindi on

    I am thrilled that the prospect of spring is just ahead of us. Looking forward to planting larkspur, as it was one of my mum’s favorites. Because she passed away last April, as it grows and blooms I will enjoy the beauty of her life reflected in this flower.

    Reply
  20. Cindi on

    I am thrilled with the prospect of spring around the corner and growing larkspur, which was one of my mum’s favorites. As she passed away last April, I will enjoy watching their beauty throughout the season as I honor her.

    Reply
  21. Anne on

    I have studied every single word you’ve written and all the sources you’ve listed and I appreciate your grace in sharing it all with us! Honestly, I can’t sleep at night dreaming of my cutting garden this year. My biggest question right now revolves around my determination to grow beautiful sweet peas … I’m in zone 6 – have started my seedlings in what I thought was the perfect temperature controlled spot in an unheated back stairwell – 55 to 65 degrees consistently. They germinated beautifully and now I’ve got them under grow lights. The temperature on the shelf where they are located is a good 8 – 10 degrees higher now that the grow lights are on. I’m pretty sure I have the correct bulbs. My biggest concern is how high to keep the grow lights about them? (they’re 6″ above the tallest seedling right now). With the grow lights above them at 6″ the temperature reading on the shelf is 75 degrees. Should I try to cool that area to keep them temperature more in the 65 degree range? As I said previously, I really cannot sleep at night thinking about them!

    Reply
  22. Cheryl Ellenburg on

    It is wonderful to find a web site that cares so much. I am new to planting seeds. This year I bought grow lights and I’m patiently waiting for germination. I wish I had seen your web site before planting. After reading your guide, I see that I’ve already made a few mistakes. I am planting in 72 trays and all the requirements are very different. Hopefully, I can work around the mistakes.

    Reply
  23. Victoria Fairbanks on

    Thank you for all these wonderful tips. So very helpful.
    I bought some sweet pea seeds from you recently, planted them and they shot up almost immediately – every single seed! – however they are very spindly and long stems with little leaves opening on the top. I fear they are not going to become sturdy enough to plant outdoors. should I transplant them into larger pots , and THEN to their final summer ‘home’?

    Reply
  24. Cheryl Ellenburg on

    This seed starting site is wonderful and so needed for beginners. Thank you for the extra help.

    Reply
  25. Kim Buchanan on

    I love reading your blog even though I may never have the chance to actually “do” any gardening. At least I get to imagine the possibilities! You are such a great writer. Happy gardening and thanks for sharing your knowledge and passion.

    Reply
  26. monika on

    I loved the “harden off recommendation” but would love to understand what that means. How do you harden off your plants? Midwest grower..

    Reply
    • Becky on

      Here’s how I harden off my seedlings. At least a week or two before I want to plant them outside, I start taking the seedlings outside. My husband sets up saw horses with boards across them to hold the 10 x 20 flats I use. This keeps them off the ground where they would be vulnerable to various varmints around here – chipmunks, mice, squirrels, etc. You might even have to watch out for inquisitive birds. I choose a protected location and a mild day with little or no wind. A location with a little dappled shade is best. For the first day, I leave them out only for 1/2 hour at the most to avoid sunburn. I gradually increase the time every day by about 15 or 20 minutes the first few days, and check the little plants frequently, especially at first. Sunburned leaves will look whitish – get them inside quickly if you see this! The plants will gradually get used to sunshine, and to breezes. But wind and sun will probably dry out the leaves and soil much more quickly than the inside environment, so check the soil moisture and plant appearance frequently. After about a week to 10 days, they should be able to stay outside all day. Then be mindful of night temperatures, which for me in SW Wisconsin can be much more chilly than the day, especially in the spring. This may seem like a lot of fussing, but it really is worth it.

  27. Cathy Ravella on

    Have you ever heard of giving a zinnia seed a hydrogen peroxide bath to help germination ?

    Reply
  28. barbara on

    I have gardened for nearly 60 years and the 2 most important things that I have learned are…. know which plant/seeds need light and which need dark to germinate and my beloved sweetpeas do best if pre-prouted on damp paper towels before planting into individual 2 inch pots. Love your blog…thank you

    Reply
  29. Birdnscrap on

    This was a great article.
    I would add:
    Be sure to use a sterile seed-starting mixture to prevent damping-off.

    Reply
  30. Amy on

    I’m in north Florida and planned on starting my seeds this week in trays outside and also directly on my beds. Do I have to worry about hardening then off if I start outside? Do you think they will burn if I start them outside?

    Reply
  31. LynG on

    My worst mistake in starting seeds has been not providing a warm enough environment so they dampened off. I started them in what I thought was a bright enough area by a window, but before I knew it they formed a green mossy mess.

    Reply
  32. Erin K on

    Yep, I’ve read every page of your book, twice, every blog, and nearly every comment. I’ve still managed to kill several trays of seedlings this month with overwatering or forgetting to water. My lights are 3” above my seedlings and they are looking sort of sad with skinny stems but nice full leafy tops. My husband built a sturdy seed starting cart that we keep in our unheated shop, each shelf has its own set of grow lights. I will try lowering the lights to one inch as you suggestt. Thank you for all the great advice! I never realized how exciting seed starting could be – I find myself anxiously checking on “my babies” first thing in the morning and as soon as I get home from work.

    Reply
  33. Kelly on

    I live in Florida and have started some of my Floret seeds, the Zinnias and Asters have little white spots on them and some bigger brown spots. Is this from the humidity, or what did I do wrong?

    Reply
  34. Meredith on

    Great post! I just ordered from you for the first time, after admiring your farm from afar. I can’t wait to plant my little seeds. I’ve made several errors but my favorite ended up working out ok. I grew two trays worth of zinnia seeds only to have them be ready to plant before I was. I ended up planting them when the seedlings were more like 12″ tall and spindly. I decided to give it a go anyway and buried them deep and let the stem lay down on the ground. It looked like I had planted a bunch of dying plants. I guess we must have had perfect growing conditions after planting them because the stems that were laying down on the ground ended up rooting and I got many flower shoots of each one, almost like new plants. I wouldn’t recommend this and I doubt I could ever recreate it but somehow it worked out that one year. It did make me realize that I shouldn’t bite off more than I can chew though and to be honest with myself on how much I really can start from seeds. Now I stick to the unusual varieties that I can’t find in big nurseries.

    Reply
  35. Wendy on

    I too, have learned the hard way when it comes to growing seeds! I now know that squirrels LOVE squash and pumpkin seeds and that you really need a reliable seedling sitter if you will be away from them. But I also know the joy of growing something totally unique that you could only get from starting your own seeds, for me it was cotton plants, grown in the heat of the greenhouse all summer , they actually produced cotton balls!! And this in Nova Scotia , Canada , zone 6, in a unheated greenhouse! It truly is exciting to be able to grow whatever you like! Just wanted to say, that I grow all of my vegetable and flower seedlings in an unheated 12′ x 32′ unheated greenhouse with no lights. I use heated mats in wooden sided beds covered with plastic frames. This provides enough heat to grow anything, starting with begonia bulbs and perennial plants in mid February. I can also overwinter anything, such as geraniums and tender succulents. Our winters can get as cold as -23 C and everything is fine. It is such an inexpensive way to grow, the heat mats use very little power compared to heating a whole greenhouse! From ageratum to zinnia, and everything in between can be grown this way. Happy spring, and I was in the greenhouse yesterday getting my hands dirty!!

    Reply
    • Jennifer on

      Wendy, would you mind sharing a photo of your wooden box set up for me? I’m in zone 6 as well and I have access to a greenhouse at the school I teach, but it is not heated. I’ve never tried growing from seed before and I would love to learn more from you.

  36. Liz Krieg on

    Thank You Erin for always being so helpful. I enjoy finding your e-mails in my box, always.

    Reply
  37. Jennifer on

    I purchased some seeds and Dahlia’s from you and it is time to start the carnation and foxgloves. I have never started plants from seed but I’m so excited to try! I have access to our school’s greenhouse. I’m not sure if it is heated, does that matter? I live in Utah and its in the 20’s today. What do you recommend?

    Reply
    • Wendy on

      This is a reply to Jennifer about growing seeds in wooden frames in an unheated greenhouse. You can send me an email and I can give you more details [email protected]

  38. Erica Bush on

    Thank you for the information! Will it hurt my tiny seedlings on the outer edges of my tray if they are slightly bending towards my grow lights? I can only fit so much of the tray under one light. Will it help if I rotate them everyday or will that weaken the stems? Thanks!

    Reply
  39. Iraide on

    This post is just what I needed: clear and informative. I’m a complete beginner and I’m excited about sowing but also full of doubts. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

    Reply
  40. Marilyn kilgore on

    Thank you so much for this post. I am so excited to start growing my flowers 🌺

    Reply

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